Fertilizing Your Lawn and Plants

Weekend gardeners with busy schedules have little time to fertilize. So, if you only do it once a year, let it be in the Fall.

Fertilizing is especially important after dry summers. Early heavy rains cause nutrients to leach out of the soil and your lawn and plants need those nutrients if they are to thrive again, especially after dry summers.

First, a few words about fertilizer in general. Manufacturers of fertilizer are regulated so that labeling is somewhat consistent. The three numbers on the package separated by hyphens indicate pounds of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, respectively. For example, in a 100-pound bag of 20-10-10- fertilizer, there are 20 pounds of nitrogen, 10 pounds of phosphorous, and 10 pounds of potassium or potash.

Now, let's start with your lawn. The leaves are off the trees and it seems as though your lawn has stopped growing. In fact, litle grass pants are recuperating from summer growth, storing nutrients for next spring and slowly extending rhizomes and more roots. Since the work "up top" (transpiration, respiration, photosynthesis) is finished for the year, the tree, shrub, and grass plants can be fully involved in root extnsion. Fertilization at this time will give those roots added strength.

Look for fertilizer that will yield at least one – two pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of application area. The ratio should be 3-1-2 or even 4-1-2. Application of fertilizer varies according to type and composition, so follow the manufacturer's recommendations. If two applications per year are suggested, use the highest stated rate in the Fall. If you do follow a four or five step regimen, now is the time to apply the last application.

There are three basic methods for fertilizing trees and shrubs. First, surface application is best in mulched or open beds. I like a 10-10-10 fertilizer around my shrubs and in annual beds; use about two pounds of this analysis fertilizer per 100 square feet as the formulation in the fertilizer changes, so to would the amount applied. For a large bed, simply broadcast the fertilizer over the entire area.

For a small area, generally about one-half cup per medium size plant is a good average. Simply sprinkle the fertilizer around the foliage edge of the shrub. Don't get too close to the stem or trunk- it can burn the bark of the plant just like it can burn your skin.

Another method of fertilizing is injection using water-soluble fertilizers. This is especially useful for plants that are not in a bed. Consider calling a professional for proper application with the needle injection method. If you elect to do it yourself, follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.

The other method of fertilization involves drilling a series of holes around the drip line of the shrub or tree and putting the fertilizer in the holes. For large trees this is an excellent method of feeding the plant without unnecessarily feeding the grass around it.


The drip line is simply the edge of the foliage portion of the tree from which the rainwater drips during a shower. Most functional roots are around the drip line – usually from about two to four feet inside the line to as much as 40 feet beyond, on big trees.

Starting about 4 feet inside the drip line, on larger trees, drill holes 1 ½ - 2 inch diameter to about 8 inches to 12 inches deep approximately 2 to 3 feet apart, in circles about 2 feet apart. Rent or borrow a three-fourths or one inch drill and use a soil auger bit. Do not use your own quarter-inch drill for this project – you'll burn it out.

The bands of holes should extend at least 6 feet or more beyond the drip line. Yes, that

Only fill the holes halfway, or to within 4 inches of the surface, or the fertilizer will cause fast-growing tufts of grass to appear in the spring. If the holes aren't deep enough to use the full amount of recommended fertilizer, drill an extra circle of holes away from the drip line.


If you have large valuable trees in you yard that haven't been fertilized as much as they should, call a professional arborist to come in and fertilize them for you.

Remember, plants need food too. Unless you live in a well-established, undisturbed woods that builds nutrients through naturally decaying, leaves, etc., you need to fertilize your trees every 3 to 5 years.

Your landscape is a valuable commodity as well as a beautiful amenity providing shade and protection from the wind. Replenishing the nutrients that leach out over time will help maximize the potential of the trees, shrubs and evergreens, increasing their value and beauty.

 


Article by Fred Hower, "The Ohio Nurseryman."
© The Ohio Nursery & Landscape Association. If you wish to reproduce articles in quantities of 10 or more, use an article in a class or training session, or reprint an article in a publication (print or web), you must obtain explicit permission from the ONLA.

 

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