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How
to Improve Site Drainage
It seems obvious to most people that the tops of plants need air
to live, but did you know that their roots need air too?
Good soil has open air pockets that comprise up to 50 percent of
its composition. When it rains, or an area is watered excessively
and is not drained away, these air pockets fill with water and
the air is eliminated. Just as humans can't breathe under water,
neither can plant roots.
Poorly draining property can be improved one of four ways. All
attempt to get the plant roots out of soggy soil.
One way is to simply fill the low spot with soil and grade the
entire area to create a very slight slope so the water runs off.
Perfectly flat terrain will collect water and not drain well.
This technique works especially well in smaller, shallower areas
that are simply puddling for a short time after a rainstorm.
If the wet area is somewhat larger and deeper, and holds water
for more than two days, I recommend putting in some type of draining
mechanism. One method is to lay perforated tile just below the
soil surface and run it out to a lower area. This is a convenient
method that is completely inconspicuous. Another technique is
to put in a drain cup or catch basin to quickly collect the surface
water and carry it away below the surface through an underground
solid tile.
Mounding the area to a height of 1 to 3 feet or more, if needed,
is one way to place the plant's roots above the underground water.
However, be aware that water can wick up through these mounds
if they are inadequate in size. The mounds should be arranged
not only for drainage, but also to create a landscaping asset.
Wide and gentle, rolling mounds help break up an otherwise
flat yard and can be visually pleasing.
Sometimes mounds will trap water at their base. You can eliminate
this by running solid tile through the base of the mound to a
lower area for better overall drainage.
For larger, nearly or already established plants that lie in wet
areas, a modified French drain can be built to give the roots
a drier growing area. Use a posthole digger beside the original
root ball to a depth of two, three, or more feet and fill the
hole loosely with large gravel. More than one hole can be used
for larger plants.
When planting new trees and shrubs in heavy clay soil or what appears
to be a possibly poor draining area, I recommend creating a modified
French drain at the bottom of the hole in which the plant is
placed.
For all new plants, in any location, I recommend planting the top
of the root ball one to two inches higher than the surrounding
soil. It is a good idea on balled and burlapped plants to dig
carefully down into the topsoil to see where the original root
level is. Then, remove any overburden before making the final
height level decision. This guarantees better drainage than planting
them level to the surrounding soil line.
Correcting drainage problems is not difficult, but for assistance,
contact your local garden center, landscape contractor or commercial
nursery grower. Better drainage is good for your plants and makes
your landscape that much more enjoyable and easier to care for.
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